Problems made invisible in fashion magazines: a view from Responsible Corporate Communication and Public Relations
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5783/revrrpp.v14i27.842Keywords:
Responsible Corporate Communication, Invisible Problems, Responsible Advertising Communication, Public Relations, Fashion MagazinesAbstract
At the beginning of the 20th century, some fashion magazines started to include fewer commercial photographs and gave more social meaning to their covers and content. Images that break social silence in editorial proposals, especially on the cover, help raise awareness of hidden issues. In this context, the role of media organizations and the function of public relations (PR) become relevant in establishing an inclusive view of these situations among target audiences. The research aimed to identify the social issues related to women that have been underexposed in magazines, specially fashion magazines, to analyze the non-verbal codes and signs to determine whether the message conveyed is responsible. With the support of visual semiotics (Eco, 1968), color semiotics (Costa, 2003), and Responsible Communication (RC) (Hernández-Flores, 2019), the study examines to what extent these cover photographs denounce such issues and create -or do not create- a responsible graphic message for audiences.The methodology is qualitative, descriptive, and non-experimental, using content analysis to identify graphic non-verbal codes and signs, thus determining the presence or absence of Responsible Communication. Vogue was selected as the fashion magazine for the study, being the best positioned in the market. The covers were chosen based on the following criteria: they had to address topics related to femininity and social issues, generate significant interaction on social media and fashion blogs, and respond to the categories established by the research concerning hidden issues: a) violence against women, b) body positivity, c) mental illness, and d) women's empowerment. The sample considers the cover photographs of the following editions: Vogue Poland's "Love & Intimacy" (May and June 2020), Vogue Portugal's "The Madness Issue" (July 2020), and Vogue Greece's "Every Body" (March 2022). The most representative results reveal moderately responsible messages regarding the visibility of social issues. For instance, in the cover photograph of Vogue Portugal (2020), "The Madness Issue," which seeks to represent a type of mental illness, public discontent is observed through social media comments, especially from those suffering from such disorders as the image conveyed is not empathetic. Similarly, the cover of Vogue Greece (2022), "Every Body," presents various themes of the female body without stigmas related to size and skin color. Moreover, there is openness in transmitting topics that some consider "controversial," such as the cover of Vogue Poland (2020), "Love & Intimacy," which shows a woman breastfeeding. This cover was applauded in some cases and criticized in others for being considered vulgar. The conclusions highlight that, although the main objective of the photographs is not to generate social awareness about women but to dress the cover with social issues to help the magazine's positioning, their contribution undoubtedly helps to expose hidden problems among their audiences, as they open a space for reflection on cultural and social content. A graphic message, seen as a whole, can foster greater awareness and reflection among readers. However, there is still a long way to go in editorial products and their proposals, especially in ensuring a better relationship with their audiences through the responsible representation of hidden issues and their social impact.
Downloads
References
Agüero, C. (2022). Arqueología del Vestir. Presentación. Boletín de la sociedad Chilena de Arqueología, 53, 9 - 13. https://doi.org/10.56575/BSCHA.05300220752
Arbaiza, R. y Huertas, S. (2018). Comunicación publicitaria en la industria de la moda: branded content, el caso de los fashion films. Revista de comunicación, 17(1), 9-33. https://doi.org/10.26441/RC17.1-2018-A1
Barthes, R. (1978). Sistema de la moda. Ediciones Paidós. https://www.planetadelibros.com/libro-el-sistema-de-la-moda/348527
Chaser, C.l. (Julio 4, 2020). “The Madness Issue” es la última edición de la revista Vogue Portugal la cual retrata los problemas mentales y de ansiedad vinculados a la cuarentena en el mundo. [Foto]. Instagram. Recuperado Junio, 16 de 2024. en https://www.instagram.com/p/CCPqYtGhs6S/?hl=de
Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and Its Social Agenda. University of Chicago Press. https://press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/chicago/F/bo3777018.html
Costa, J. (2003). Diseñar para los ojos. Grupo Editorial Desing. https://stringer2016.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/disec3b1ar-para-los-ojos.pdf
Del Olmo, J. (2005). Marketing de la moda. Ediciones Internacionales Universitarias, EIUNSA.
Díaz, P. (2014). Comunicación y gestión de marcas de moda. Editorial Gustavo Gili S.L. https://www.perlego.com/es/book/2564605/comunicacin-y-gestin-de-marcas-de-moda-pdf
Escobar, T. y Amoroso, S. (2019). El giro humanista del sistema de la moda. Cuadernos Del Centro De Estudios De Diseño Y Comunicación, 76, 119-132. https://doi.org/10.18682/cdc.vi76.1060
Eco, U. (1968). La estructura ausente. Introducción a la Semiótica. (3ra ed.). Editorial Lumen.
Gómez de Travesedo, R y Gil, M. (2020). De Twitter a Instagram ¿Qué redes sociales eligen las revistas de moda y belleza?. Icono14 18(1), 179-204. https://doi.org/10.7195/ri14.v18i1.1395
González, I. (2015). El comunicador de moda: estrategias y herramientas garantes del éxito comunicativo en las empresas de moda [Tesis de Licenciatura no publicada]. Universidad de Sevilla. https://idus.us.es/bitstream/handle/11441/26607/tfgpercomunicador.pdf?sequence=1
González-Oñate, C. (2019). Estrategias de comunicación publicitaria: la importancia del planning. Universitat Jaume I. https://repositori.uji.es/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10234/183162/s156.pdf
Guiraud, P. (2017). La Semiología (32° ed.). Anthropos editorial.
Hernández-Flores, H. G., Sánchez, V. y Estupiñan, A. (2019). Comunicación gubernamental responsable en situaciones de crisis: El caso de Frida Sofia. Perspectivas de la comunicación, 12(2), 127-153. https://www.perspectivasdelacomunicacion.cl/ojs/index.php/perspectivas/article/view/1876
Hernández-Flores, H. G., Rivera-Salas, P. E. y Navarro-Sequeira, M. G. (2021). Perspectiva en comunicación responsable: Conceptualización, rasgos, y ámbitos de aplicación. Anuario de investigación CONEICC, 1(28), 96-105. https://anuario.coneicc.org.mx/index.php/anuarioconeicc/article/view/466/307
Hernández-Flores, H. G. (2022). Mensajes en Medios tradicionales (offline) y no tradicionales (online) desde la Comunicación Responsable. En H.G. Hernández-Flores, M.G. Navarro-Sequeira y C.E. Ahuactzin-Martínez (Eds.), Comunicación Digital Responsable en Ambientes Virtuales y Medios de Comunicación (pp. 120-143). Tirant Lo Blanch.
Hernández-Flores, H.G., Rivera-Salas, P.E. y Berra, A. (2023). Comunicación Responsable: Aproximación al expertisse de los dircom universitarios y sus propuestas de mejora. [Sesión de congreso]. Asociación Mexicana de Investigadores de la Comunicación AMIC, Universidad de Monterrey, Nuevo León, México.
Hernández-Flores, H.G., Madrigal, S. y Rivera-Salas, P.E. (2024, 13 de febrero). Publicidad Responsable como respuesta a nuevos entornos: exploración del subcampo y sus rasgos para una publicidad más ética [Ponencia]. IV Congreso Hermes de Comunicación, medios audiovisuales y análisis, Lanzarote, España. https://youtu.be/EHGqmqmKRnw?si=dpUDQqlDlXnCk9KP
Hernández-López, I. (2020). La invisibilización como metáfora: una categoría de análisis para identificar el proceso de invisibilización en problemáticas sociales. http://portal.amelica.org/ameli/jatsRepo/304/3041295003/index.html
Martínez, A., y Gómez, G. N. (2019). De la semiótica visual a la semiótica de la moda: identificando el color durante la Ruta Libertadora. Designia, 7(1), 85–115. https://doi.org/10.24267/22564004.515
Moore, G. (2013). Promoción de moda. Editorial GG.
Mansilla, P. (2017). Sociología de la moda, un punto de vista privilegiado. Vínculos de Historia, 6(6), 171–187. http://dx.doi.org/10.18239/vdh.v0i6.009
Medina, F (2008). La moda, el sentido del vestir y la modernidad. Iconofacto 4(5), 11 - 26 https://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/articulo?codigo=5204289
Ortíz-Rodríguez, H. (2020). Comunicación publicitaria en medios digitales: La gestión de la responsabilidad social en las Organizaciones del Tercer Sector. InMediaciones de la Comunicación, 15(1), 109-131. https://doi.org/10.18861/ic.2020.15.1.2960
Rojas, L. (2023). Conceptualización del propósito de marca. El primer paso para la creación de la comunicación publicitaria responsable. En H.G. Hernandez Flores y J.A. Hidalgo (Eds.), Comunicación Responsable: aproximación teórica-práctica hacía la construcción del campo (1a ed., pp. 135-151).
https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B0CH8J6NVN?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_R7320WHP1SRK5X88A1R0
Ruiz, N. (2018, 26 de mayo). La historia de una revista de moda. Blog DSIGNO. https://www.dsigno.es/blog/diseno-de-moda/la-historia-de-una-revista-de-moda-vogue
Sanromán, J. , Suárez, F. y Galindo, F. (2022). Identidad Visual Editorial Dinámica y diseño de portadas: el caso de la Luna de Metrópoli (2018-2020). Revista de Comunicación, 21(2), 157-178. https://doi.org/10.26441/RC21.2-2022-A8
Uría, A. (2016). La identidad a través de la moda: EBSCOhost. Revista de Humanidades, 29, 131-152.http://e-spacio.uned.es/fez/eserv/bibliuned:revistaRH-2016-29-7050/La_identidad_a_traves.pdf
Vogue (2020). Love & intimacy. Revista Vogue Polonia.
Vogue (2020). The Madness Issue. Revista Vogue Portugal.
Vogue (2022). Every Body. Revista Vogue Grecia.
Real Academia de la Lengua Española (2020, 28 de septiembre). Vestido Definición. Diccionario de la Lengua Española. https://dle.rae.es/vestido#G9Mun6t
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2024 Adriana De Uriarte Kuri, Hilda Gabriela Hernández Flores
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
Authors publishing in this journal agree to the following terms:
a. Authors retain copyright and grant the journal the right to be the first publication of the work as licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of authorship of the work and initial publication in this journal.
b. Authors may separately enter into additional arrangements for non-exclusive distribution of the version of the work published in the journal (e.g., placing it in an institutional repository or publishing it in a book), with an acknowledgement of initial publication in this journal.
c. Authors are allowed and encouraged to disseminate their work electronically (e.g. in institutional repositories or on their own website) before and during the submission process, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and higher citation of published work (see The Effect of Open Access).